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Source for anchor chain
Author Last Post
Hi, Richard.

We replaced a 300’ chain with 500’ last week at Campbell River, and find it much more relaxing anchoring in 100-150’. But now I’m wondering if I should have gotten 600’ on the principle that anything worth doing is worth overdoing. 

Cheers!
Jim

E-Helm Marine Telematics

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360 672 4379

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jm@e-helm.com

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www.e-helm.com

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Deception Pass, Whidbey Island, WA , USA

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Hi Richard:

Yes.....you want a minimum of 400 feet of chain in the PNW. We fairly regularly anchor in depths up to and even slightly over 100 feet. There are lots of amazing, beautiful bays that are 200+ feet deep for the majority of the bay with extremely steep walls that come up to nothing in a very short distance. Then add in 15-20 feet of tide swing, and you get a good idea of some of the anchoring challenges here. BUT IT'S WORTH IT!

Mark


John,

You don't have to do anything with the ends of the rope. Eventually you will get a 3" - 6" tag hanging out, but it goes through the windlass just fine. You can tuck it back in the chain if you'd like. They will naturally fray some and that helps to keep it in the chain. But really, it's not a problem.


Richard

I carry 400 ft but I’ve only used more than 300 once this summer.  

Hello Richard,

Fantastic idea with the nylon “woven” into the links.  I have painted and zip tied also with the same results as you.
One question.  How did you secure the ends of the braided nylon to keep them in the links?  The picture you posted shows them free.

Thanks,

Richard - in PNW 300’ is fine for Washington and British Columbia. If you plan to voyage SE Alaska and beyond then 400’ is recommended.

Carl Gulledge
MV Ellipsis
5906

I thought I would circle back and let you know that I found a source for chain and installed it yesterday. I'm at the Front Street Shipyard in Belfast Maine (a very nice yard BTW) on the hard getting some other work done and had the chain delivered here.


One trick that I learned that I thought I would pass on is the way I mark the depths of the chain. I mark them every 25 feet RED - WHITE - BLUE - YELLOW (100') and repeat. That's easy to remember and 25 feet is a good interval, not too small, not too big.


I've tried paint (requires stretching it out on a dock, time for the paint to dry and didn't last long) and wire ties (hard to see and wore off). Then I heard about using 1/4" rope woven through the chain links. That works really well. I take 3 feet of 1/4" braided nylon rope and install it every 25 feet (see photos). One photo shows the old rope I removed from my old chain. It loses it's brilliant color in mud and with time, but still easy to see after 250 days at anchor.


After I received the 300' of chain, another Selene owner (and friend) contacted me privately with 400' of new chain that he never installed. I still need too replace my port side chain, so I may make the trip to his house to pick that up some time in the future. I'm going to keep the identities of my sources confidential to respect their privacy, but I appreciate both of them greatly for their help.


My question to Pacific Northwest cruisers...how much chain is appropriate for cruising in the PNW? I'm thinking 400' may be better than 300'.


Richard

Untethered, 57-22

Jack, I went back and read your rationale for 75' of chain, the rest rope. I do have a 3rd anchor that has 50 feet of chain and 250' of rope. So I could use that for kedging or Plan B if my windlass stopped working.


Rob, unfortunately the rust is too bad on both chains. I think I will just replace one chain right now (since I have NEVER used my second anchor, a Bruce). Mostly on the East Coast from MA to Bahamas I only use the first 150' or so. But in Maine the anchorages are significantly deeper and I've been using the middle part of the 300' chain which has the most rust because it has been used the least.

Richard - Consider my rationale for using all chain on one side and maybe 75' of chain then rope rode after that for balance on the other side.  Posted about it before a couple times and you can search my posts.  It saved me from additional complications more than once.  Call or email if you want to chat.

Best - Jack

Well, 100’ of my galvanized chain sitting in the bottom of the chain locker, mired in the slop resulting from the crappy bow pulpit drains on Shangri-La, turned to dust pretty much from December ‘24 - May ‘25. I posted photos earlier of the deterioration - scary! Doesn’t get much weaker than that! I have new drains on 6047 coming next year to avoid the problem. What is recommended for a clean chain locker?


Jack


Jack Burgess, Shangri-La 5388

Stainless is weaker. Take your chances.

 
Mark

Anyone considered stainless steel chain? My Swiss friend Michael who singlehands a Moody DS-54 all over the world swears by it. I am going to have to buy some chain soon so shopping.


I did purchase two all Stainless Steel Lewmar Epsilon anchors, 50 and 63 KG, for the new boat for less than $7,000 for both. One primary Ultra would have cost more than two of what I have. They are Next Gen anchors, Impressively shaped, and beautiful!


Jack


Jack Burgess, Shangri-La 5388

I have purchased chain from 1st Chain Supply at reasonable prices, good people to talk with to verify you're getting exactly what you want. Delivery can be a wrinkle as usually a forklift is needed for receiving.


https://www.1st-chainsupply.com/chain-by-type/windlass-anchor-chain/


Have you considered re-galvanizing? Sometimes that can make sense.


- rob

Roadrunner

2007 Selene 49 deep hull 48-029

Defender

 
Mark

Richard:

Surprisingly, I got new anchor chain at West Marine last year on a really good sale. They were cheaper than anyplace else I could find in the Seattle area.

Mark


My anchor chains are shot, too rusty. I need 300 feet of 7/16 G4 chain times 2. I've already switched them end for end and port to stbd. I've gotten all I'm going to get out of these chains.


Can anyone suggest a source for chain? I'll need to have it shipped to Front Street Shipyard in Belfast, Maine.


Thanks,

Richard

Untethered, 57-22

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